The Chile / Argentina border crossing was very simple and the most thorough we have come across. A customs officer took Sam’s bag and asked to take a look inside. He immediately found the frisbee and started asking us what it was for. Rather than try and explain in our broken Spanish, Sam demonstrated by throwing the frisbee to another officer who became very excited…surely they have seen a frisbee before? A quick game followed before we had to get back on the bus…funny.
So we were finally in Argentina and on our way to Mendoza. I couldn’t have been more excited. Since the day we left the UK I have been dreaming of rare steaks and amazing Malbec wines. We were actually both feeling a little worse for wear as we’d had a few too many the night before, so our first night in Mendoza was surprisingly a dry one. We made up for it the next day by ordering the biggest steak we could find (and afford) accompanied by a bottle of their finest Malbec (within our budget). This was followed by a Cabernet Sauvignon dinner back at the hostel.
The next few days followed the same suit with the odd home cooked meal thrown in and occasional beer just to mix things up a little.
A popular thing to do here is biking around the vineyards, and our hostel offered us free bikes for a day if we booked for four nights…perfect. We’d heard a lot about a bike rental company called Mr Hugo, and I was really looking forward to a nice romantic bike ride through the Maipu wine region taking in the sites and sampling some of Mendoza’s best wines. Instead we were faced with an 8km bike ride down a very busy main road taking in the dust from the trucks zooming past and freezing because we’d chosen the one day it wasn’t sunny!
We visited three vineyards, each very different. The first was a small and very old family run winery which produced only 40,000 bottles per year and only sold their wine in Argentina. It was a really interesting tour and their reserve Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon wines were delicious…a good start to the day. The next winery was a bit different, producing double the quantity as the first but we weren’t offered a tour. We each choose three wines to taste and rested our legs for an hour or two. The last winery was very modern looking offering a self-guided tour and was in an amazing setting; just a shame about the weather. Again, we each choose three wines to try and sat back and enjoyed the view. We ended the day in a beer garden and slowly made our way back to Mr Hugo’s trying our best to cycle in a straight line.
We decided to switch hostels after four days as our hostel was quite dull and expensive. So we moved to Hostel Lao and into a dorm room (more money for wine). After a reasonably heavy night with Ali and Matt (who we met in Chile) we decided that we had better try and have a dry day. It was going really well until the hostel introduced ‘free wine night’ and as most of you will know I’ve never been one to turn down free wine.
I really wanted to experience the wines in as many different ways as possible. The bike day was great but I really wanted to experience the pairing of wines with food. I found a winery with great reviews offering a five course tasting menu with wines for about £60 a head…a bargain back in the UK but on our budget Sam took some persuading. I had also emailed a friend, Ben who works for a wine merchant called Jascot’s in the UK to see if he had any contacts over here. Anyway it couldn’t have worked out better. The day we were meant to go for our fancy lunch, our hostel was offering a BBQ with as much wine you could drink for about $20 and we received an email from Ben detailing our visit to the La Chamiza vineyard including a tour with their Agronomist and a tasting with lunch with their wine maker…result! So we quickly cancelled the booking with the other winery and joined in with the hostel BBQ.
The BBQ was amazing and included huge hunks of steak and pork, chorizo and blood sausage (surprisingly delicious) accompanied by copious amounts of red wine. It was a great day and a great way to meet everyone in the hostel.
In preparation for our visit to La Chamiza I managed to persuade Sam that I needed some shoes and possibly a new top (or two). So that’s exactly what we did…shop! I managed to squeeze in two new nail varnishes and a pair of sunglasses too…hurrah! After the BBQ we decided that we’d have another attempt to have a dry day but it didn’t last long as the hostel owner Mike (from Derby) persuaded Sam to go out and buy some empanadas for us all and give him directions to the nearest wine shop…here we go again I thought.
Our day at La Chamiza was amazing. We were picked up from our hostel by Ramiro, our host for the day, and driven about 40 minutes out of town to one of their vineyards. We were met by their Agronomist who is basically a specialist in soil and looks after all the vines. We were shown around their premier vines…exclusively used for their top wine, Martin Alsina Malbec. Ramiro translated and told us about the growing process and the irrigation system which is a very organic irrigation system of using the water from the mountains.
We were then driven back to town for a tasting of their top end wines which included the Polo Professional wines, the Legend wine and finally the amazing Martin Alsina Malbec. We went to a restaurant called azafrán and were shown into their tasting room or wine library which was just beautiful and included ponchos in case it got too cold. We were greeted by their wine maker, Martin who guided us through each wine and provided us with tasting notes. Then a series of tapas style dishes were served which was the perfect accompaniment to the wines and made for a very relaxing tasting.
Not to go on too much about it but the Martin Alsina Malbec was possibly one of the best wines I have ever tasted (and I have tried a few). It has even won the ‘Best Malbec from Argentina’ award over the last few years so it’s a wine that they are deservedly very proud of and a wine I feel very privileged to have tried.
We have had an amazing week in Mendoza but it’s time to move on and give my liver a rest so tonight we head South towards Bariloche on what I hope will be our last overnight bus of this trip.
Until the next time…